But look at the fun bags I made! My favorite is this one with the bird in the tree. Note to self: I must make myself a new purse.
I am crazily getting ready for Oh sweet Sadie! Art Market and The Traveling Trunk.
Oh, hello there. Nice to see you. Notice anything different? Anything intermediate? Yes, that's right. I have successfully completed an intermediate pattern. We're talking darts, facing, curvy sleeves, and bits that match up.
And, while I'm (obviously) pretty chuffed with myself I can't take all the credit. Colette patterns are just so damn good. I mean they come in book format. They have a glossary. I know I've praised Colette pattern's organised awesomeness before, but it's worth another shout out.
What I changed?
I used a single layer of fabric for the sleeves and hemmed them instead of using two-layers as the pattern suggests. I think the curve would have been nicer with two-layers, but I was feeling rebellious. I also used a regular zipper instead of an invisible zipper because apparently I live in the deserted wastelands and dark blue invisible zippers over 5cm are rare, exotic gems.
What I like?
Despite my rebellion, I adore the way the sleeves turned out. They're incredibly feminine in how they mimic the bust line. The secret pockets hidden beneath a pleat. We're talking hidden, deep, comfortable pockets that don't change the shape or bulk up the dress. Genius. Someone get Sarai a nobel prize, stat.
I'm also really happy with the fit of the dress, especially the bodice. As usual, the pattern had to go through some epic changes to fit me properly. I originally cut a 4 in the top and 6 in the bottom (holla for the badonkadonks!), lengthened the bodice 3.5cm (1.4"), took in the waist, adjusted the skirt to match, blah blah blah...
What I'll do next time?Match the waist band pieces. Ssssh. Just don't look at them.
So, my verdict is love, love, love and I can't wait to make it again. But, I know you might be wondering... what does my macaron have to do with a field track? Well I was at Uni wearing my dress, so I thought I'd take some photos while out there. And, the reason I was at Uni?
So I'm a graduate with intermediate sewing skillz. Could I be any happier? No. Probably not. Unless I had a chocolate milkshake. Then my life would be complete.
Saying a sewing project is on my table is a bit of a lie. It's really on my floor, with a sleeve on the table, a skirt front over a chair, and a back yoke who-knows-where. But it will come together, with the it being my new, nearly completed Colette Macaron dress. You've probably seen it out in the google-sphere on other talented ladies (or men?). I'm using the same japanese cotton from my Welcome Spring dress... and my present bag.
But please, hear my case. I have a totally legitimate reason. You see I bought the fabric online, and my cautious nature thought "I'll get a touch extra, just in case". I then discovered the Simplicity pattern was a big fat lying liar pants and I needed way less than suggested. So I gotta-lotta fabric. Two dresses and a bag's worth, actually. The Macaron pattern is labelled 'intermediate', but to be honest I haven't found too many issues... yet. It just requires patience.
I have also checked a technique. Look at this facing, it's so facey! I can't believe it took me so long to do facing. I literally stared at it for about an hour. You know what else this facing is? Serged. Seriously I am now considering my life in two parts: Before and after owning a serger. With the latter obviously being far greater and magical.
It makes everything so clean. So neat. So finished. I'm going a little serger crazy. This is going to be the neatest goddamn garment in the land I tell you. Oh, I also have a new addition to my treasured sewing family. Yesterday was my birthday and, what can I say, my boy knows how to buy a good present. I haven't used it yet, but I feel pretty pro just having it in my possession.
Yeah, things are getting Colette-crazy around here, and next up is the beautiful Violet blouse. I've had this pattern for a while but never mustered the courage to attack those intimidating button holes, or that menacing peter pan collar. I'm sure I'll find, just like every other time I check a technique, it will be fine and I have nothing to fear from a little Peter Pan action.
I'll probably use one of the three fabrics below as they're already in my stash. I'm petrified of creating one of those prevalent space-devouring stash-monsters. That all looks rather pink, doesn't it? The first two I bought at a vintage fair, and the third is a liberty of London fabric I got for my birthday. Spoilt much? Yes. I've never sewn with liberty fabric, but it's been a dream of mine. I'm not embarrassed to admit I've spent hours just holding onto this little strip of fabric, rubbing it against my cheek.
Which one would you use?I don't consider myself to have poor time management, in fact I'm organised. Really organised. Like chill out Reana Louise and put the filing system down organised. However, I find I have no time this year. Yes I work, yes I study full time, yes I have a social life (admittedly a bit small and pathetic), but I do that every year. So who's the culprit? What's to blame? Sewing.
I'm obsessed - did you know that Well of course you didn't because I'm telling you now, but I do! All the time I think about it. Whenever I leave the house I'm dissecting other people's outfits thinking how was it made? How does it sit like that? Will that warp? How hard would it be to get those stripes to line up? I'm mad, totally sewing mad I tell you!
And it's not like I'm overly fecund, I've only produced a handful of garments. So much of my time is spent scouring the inspiration, blogs, and communities in the big time-sucking device that is the internet. And then there's this blog - which is so much fun being able to express ideas and ask questions to people who love sewing as much as I do (I already bore my friends with art, I can't push this on them too).
But it's not as bad as I might be making out, it's so rewarding creating something and then wearing it. But what about you guys? Are you as obsessed as me, or do you take sewing in your stride? Is there anything else that you're obsessed with?
Especially the way it fits... I'm not going to bore you with all of the details, just a quick run through with links to techniques. If you have any questions, please ask me!
I practically snatched it from the poor postman. You see, I live in a house of girls and a fair bit of online-shopping happens around here. Much time is spent out the front with tea-in-hand eyeing his arrival down like vultures - so hopefully he's used to it. Talking of online shopping my roommate just bought this dress from modcloth, how pretty is it? As you know I'm buying zero clothes this year so I have to live vicariously through them. Thank god they have such great taste!
But back onto my original point... New bikini pattern means I'm now ready to buy some fabric! The only problem is I think there's a secret kingdom of gorgeous and appropriately priced stretchy bikini fabric that is hiding from me. I've done a bit of hunting at the local fabric shops but their lycra is more 5th-grade-gymnast-team than hot-woman-strutting-about-Europe. Where is all of the good swimmer fabric?
So far 'Beach Animation' from Tessuti is winning, the only problem is that I think the pattern might be a little too big? One butt cheek might look like a giant flower, and the other a dark navy space? Is it Ok to have a lop-sided butt? I definitely don't want the flower in the middle.
I've scrummaged through etsy too and couldn't find anything that felt 'right'. And then I need lining! Picking fabric for me is one of the fun tasks (unlike hemming, or ironing- snore) but I feel this is something I need a little help with.
So come one... give me your secrets! Have you found some swimwear fabric that you're dying to use and would be willing to share the source? Do you know where the secret kingdom of luscious lycra is hiding?
Surprisingly, I miss the smell of mothballs and rotting, moldy fabric. I miss how cold and dark it would be on a hot, summer day. But what I miss the most is the amazing surprise each box would be as uncovered some amazing suit made in Paris or a box just overflowing with heirloom styled petticoats. Do you know how much restraint it took me not to try anything on? lol! Yes, big no-no indeed!
The San Fransisco Museum is having a exhibition on the great couturier Balenciaga. Now, I honestly only knew of this designer in high school from the infamous Balenciaga motorcycle bag that all my friends covereted. Now everyone has a copy hanging from their arm. It wasn't until my great discovery of couture that I realized how beautiful his work was.
I have three major papers to write this week and not much on the sewing front has been completed. I've been knitting a bit, a row here and there. Sometimes I get quite a lot done in a sitting, but then sometimes I maybe knit just a row before my hands get tired. Though, over break I was super excited to finish up my first ball and move onto the second.
Last night my father invited me to a BBQ up in the mountains. I got my kitchen supplies and drove as fast as I could. There is something about the mountains, the air is crisper and the colors are more vibrant. I made my spicy barbecue bean burgers and an anti-pasta salad. We had the traditional corn on the cob, which we left on the grill too long and blackened on the bottom. I took some shots of the farm valley between my father's home and my mothers on the drive back, I just missed the sunset but it still is just as beautiful at twilight. Soon, around July and August, the fields will be lite with fireflies and I promise when it happens I'll take plenty of pictures.
I can officially call it summer. However, most of my peers won't call it summer until Memorial Day. What a perfect time to start on some cotton, floral frocks! I just finished Simplicity's 2250 by Cynthia Rowley. I did a few adjustments, such as doing a muslin lining, omitting the tie, and elastic in the ruffles. All the fabric manipulation in the top isn't visible in the white cotton. I do think it would show better in a dark color where you can see the contrast if you're focused on that detail. It's intermediate, at best. The top takes a bit of finesse doing all those tucks. It resembles a bit of a puzzle piece, it took a bit of marking and basting. But, if you have patience and can follow directions it might be the best challenge to a experienced beginner.
You might be able to tell that I only attached the zipper to the underlining. It's something we do at work all the time when there is a light overlay like organza or chiffon. It keeps it nice and light, doesn't add bulk, and makes the zipper sit well when you're using a lining.
I remember hearing once upon a time that you retain more information if you explain a subject to someone else, rather than just reading it. This could be a big lie, kind of like "if the wind changes your face will get stuck that way" or "watermelon seeds will grow in your belly", except it's not mean and won't give children nightmares and I've got to write about something here, right? Especially now that I have followers! Real followers with computers, and keyboards, and pins!
Why do I need to change my Needle? Well a blunt needle can make your fabric snag or pucker. A needle too big for your fabric acts like a 'cannon ball', and a needle too small / not strong enough for your fabric can snap. Basically wrong needle = possible ruined material. After the amazing effort and love you've put into the fabric, plus the money - why risk it?
How often should I change my Needle? So far I've read you should change your needle every new sewing project, every three spools of bobbin thread, or whenever it 'feels' like you need to. Obviously you might need to change it for the fabric (just like I am with my new super stretchy Jersey). What about you? How often do you change your needles?
What are the parts of the Needle? Um.... the pointy bit and the other bit? Oh, and these ones:
Shank - This is the bit that goes into the machine. It has two sides- a Round Side on the front which has the name and number of the needle, and a Flat Side that goes against the rear of the machine. This makes it super easy to make sure you've got the needle in the machine the right way.
Shaft - Don't think dirty thoughts! Ha! Now you can't help it! The shaft goes from the shank all the way to the point of the needle. The size of the shaft (thickness) determines the size of the needle.
Groove - You can see this running down the front of your needle, this protects the thread like a little cubby hole or super fashionable metal jacket.
Eye - This is where the thread goes! The eye can't be too small for the thread and there's a really easy way to check. Put some thread through the hole, now turn the thread on an angle so it's like a flying fox. Can the needle fall smoothly down the thread? If it gets stuck you might need to use another needle.
Point - Oh you clever cookie I think you've got this! This is the bit that penetrates the fabric and it differs too. I'll get to that in a minute...
Scarf - This is a small indentation on the back side of the needle, just above the eye. It helps pick up the bobbin and consistent stitching. So, the things that affect which needle you want is the size of the shaft, the eye hole, and the point.
How do I know what the sizes mean? There are usually 2 sizes on a needle, one is the European size and the other is American. (Why are there two different systems for everything? Can't we just get along numerically!) Basically the bigger the number, the smaller the needle.
How do I know which type of needle I need, and size?
Even though Jane's instructions were amazingly clear it took my little beginner brain actually seeing the movement - after that it was so easy and I'm a Bias convert! Sorry for the picture below, I know how eerie (and boring) faceless pictures are but I'm not up to posting my silly facials on the Internet yet... give me time!
Well it's really pretty, and Tasia's instructions were invaluable for a beginner. Also it seems like one of those patterns that you could make loads of little adjustments to make each blouse unique. Look at me! Talking like I know about sewing. I say it because I've seen a few alterations like Jane's below and they're really cute - I'm even going to attempt my own!
My complaints are currently limited to my own talent. I found it a bit difficult to work with such slippery fabric, especially when it came to cutting. The only other thing was fitting - My abilities of tissue fitting are horrible but I take zero blame for that - I'm currently under the impression you need to have as many arms as Shiva, a gazillion-jointed-spine, and eyes in the back of your head (or a dress form worth AU$450) to be able to fit on your own body. So I've caved and just ordered 'Fit for Real People' hopefully those divas on the front cover will show me how to wear shoulder pads with pride!
Eep! After doing French seams on the shoulders I got totally distracted by my bias-tape dilemma and forgot to do them! From my limited experience they were super easy, and they look much nicer than my other seams as I kick it old-school and don't have a Serger... that's just how I roll.
Heck yeah Grizzly Bear! I've already got my fabric and I'm going to make a few adjustments to the pattern so it fits better, not to mention do it a little 'neater' this time. I might even be adventurous and make a few minor changes with the detail? I'm thinking buttons, because who doesn't like buttons? If you want to see more you can check out the Flickr Group, but I just had to point out the one below because I think she's hot stuff.